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A Community For People Who Buy, Sell or Collect Antiques, Collectibles and Art

Silver Care & Restoration


Silver Care & Restoration

Post your questions and receive researched answers on the care, restoration, and conservation of silver holloware, flatware, and jewelry from silversmith Jeffrey Herman.

• All information published by Jeffrey Herman is © copyrighted.

Website: http://www.hermansilver.com
Location: Rhode Island
Members: 25
Latest Activity: Sep 2, 2019

Precious Metal Prices

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Discussion Forum

Restoration of Georg Jensen Tankard 1 Reply

Started by Jeffrey Herman. Last reply by AC Silver Antiques Aug 27, 2019.

old stainless steale 1 Reply

Started by Brend Clark. Last reply by Jeffrey Herman Jun 28, 2013.

Restoration of Sterling Ball, Black & Co. Coffeepot

Started by Jeffrey Herman Jan 21, 2013.

New Silver Polish Abrasion Ratings Guide!

Started by Jeffrey Herman Sep 18, 2012.

Repair of Cast Iron Match Safe 2 Replies

Started by Jeffrey Herman. Last reply by Jeffrey Herman Jul 14, 2012.

Don't Buy This Product!

Started by Jeffrey Herman Feb 3, 2012.

Precious Metal Fraud

Started by Jeffrey Herman Nov 28, 2011.

Buyers of Chinese "Sterling" Beware!

Started by Jeffrey Herman Nov 25, 2011.

Dangerous & Destructive Chemical Dips

Started by Jeffrey Herman Nov 23, 2011.

Keep Silver out of the Dishwasher!

Started by Jeffrey Herman Nov 22, 2011.

Candles and Weighted Silver

Started by Jeffrey Herman Nov 22, 2011.

Don't Trust all Silver Polishing Videos!

Started by Jeffrey Herman Nov 21, 2011.

Removing Dried Polish

Started by Jeffrey Herman Nov 21, 2011.

New Finding in Tarnish Removal

Started by Jeffrey Herman Nov 21, 2011.

Tarnish Formation

Started by Jeffrey Herman Nov 21, 2011.

Comment Wall


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Comment by Jeffrey Herman on November 22, 2011 at 7:51am

Candles and Weighted Silver

Over the years I have repaired numerous weighted candlesticks and candelabras. Many of these repairs involved reattaching the tops of candle cups. The reason they become detached is because the candles are allowed to burn all the way down to the bottoms of the holders. The heat from the burning wick melts the pitch that fills the body of the cup and expands, pushing up the cup’s top.

Comment by Jeffrey Herman on November 21, 2011 at 5:14pm

Don't Trust All Silver Polishing Videos!

I have viewed numerous online videos demonstrating harmful silver polishing techniques. Do not trust everything you see online regarding silver care! Some of these videos, produced by well-intentioned but ill-informed individuals, show the use of horribly abrasive products such as Nevr-Dull, toothpaste, or baking soda. Some advocate the use of the toxic product Tarn-X which, although not abrasive, will remove factory-applied patinas, and will actually promote the formation of tarnish. The aluminum foil technique (in which the user is encouraged to soak silver in water containing baking soda and a piece of aluminum foil) will also allow tarnish to form more quickly. Also, many videos say that it's okay to put silver in your dishwasher–that's not true!

I have spent 25 years testing products and researching the subject of silver care. With proper care, your silver will remain beautiful for generations!

Comment by Jeffrey Herman on November 21, 2011 at 10:26am

Removing Dried Polish

Always remove dried polish and grime from crevices and ornament on previously polished pieces before repolishing. Wetting a horsehair or natural white boar bristle brush will soften the bristles and aid in lifting the polish from the object's surface with minimal abrasion. A wet toothpick will get into the smallest areas.

Comment by Jeffrey Herman on November 20, 2011 at 4:29pm

New Finding in Tarnish Removal

It's the holiday season, and that means you're probably getting ready to clean your silver. Before you pick up that bottle of silver polish, read this:

Tarnish is easily removed when first noticed (usually as a yellowish tint), and will become increasingly difficult to deal with as it turns to light brown and eventually black. Occasionally washing an object with a non-lemon-scented phosphate-free detergent is preferred to waiting until tarnish forms and gets so stubborn that polishes have to be employed. (All polishes have some degree of abrasion.) If you start to see very light tarnish that can sometimes only be detected when the object is viewed against a piece of glossy white paper, Windex with vinegar or a liquid, non-abrasive, unscented, aloe-free hand sanitizer, such as Purell, may remove the tarnish. Use a large cotton ball and rotate it regularly to expose unused surfaces, as elements in the tarnish itself can be very abrasive; then dry the piece with a Selvyt cloth or cotton dish towel. Try this technique first, as it is the least abrasive of all silver cleaning methods.

The sterling sugar above is an example of what Windex can accomplish in removing light tarnish. Obviously, to remove the more stubborn tarnish you would use one of my recommended silver polishes.

Comment by Jeffrey Herman on November 20, 2011 at 4:27pm

Tarnish Formation

Below are images showing opposite sides of a silverplated luncheon knife exposed to the open air for 14 months. The top image is the knife as it sat on a buffet, face up. The bottom image is of the side that was facing down and, therefore, not directly exposed to harmful tarnish-producing particulate. This is a clear illustration that silver will maintain its finish over a longer period when kept in a case or enclosed cabinet. (There should be no off-gassing from the case or cabinet. If it is made of wood, the interior surface should be sealed, preferably with lacquer or water-based polyurethane. If latex paint is used, allow it to dry for at least four months.)


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