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Silver Care & Restoration

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Silver Care & Restoration

Post your questions and receive researched answers on the care, restoration, and conservation of silver holloware, flatware, and jewelry from silversmith Jeffrey Herman.

• All information published by Jeffrey Herman is © copyrighted.


Website: http://www.hermansilver.com
Location: Rhode Island
Members: 16
Latest Activity: Nov 27, 2013

Precious Metal Prices

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Discussion Forum

old stainless steale 1 Reply

Started by Brend Clark. Last reply by Jeffrey Herman Jun 28, 2013.

Restoration of Georg Jensen Tankard

Started by Jeffrey Herman Apr 10, 2013.

Restoration of Sterling Ball, Black & Co. Coffeepot

Started by Jeffrey Herman Jan 21, 2013.

New Silver Polish Abrasion Ratings Guide!

Started by Jeffrey Herman Sep 18, 2012.

Repair of Cast Iron Match Safe 2 Replies

Started by Jeffrey Herman. Last reply by Jeffrey Herman Jul 14, 2012.

Don't Buy This Product!

Started by Jeffrey Herman Feb 3, 2012.

Precious Metal Fraud

Started by Jeffrey Herman Nov 28, 2011.

Buyers of Chinese "Sterling" Beware!

Started by Jeffrey Herman Nov 25, 2011.

Dangerous & Destructive Chemical Dips

Started by Jeffrey Herman Nov 23, 2011.

Keep Silver out of the Dishwasher!

Started by Jeffrey Herman Nov 22, 2011.

Candles and Weighted Silver

Started by Jeffrey Herman Nov 22, 2011.

Don't Trust all Silver Polishing Videos!

Started by Jeffrey Herman Nov 21, 2011.

Removing Dried Polish

Started by Jeffrey Herman Nov 21, 2011.

New Finding in Tarnish Removal

Started by Jeffrey Herman Nov 21, 2011.

Tarnish Formation

Started by Jeffrey Herman Nov 21, 2011.

Comment Wall

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Comment by Ellen Wiley on March 7, 2012 at 4:08pm

Jeffrey thank you so much for your input.  I will take it to have it checked out.  This information will be helpful to me in the future also.  I appreciate your response.

Comment by Jeffrey Herman on March 7, 2012 at 12:38pm

Normally, if an object is solid silver it will be indicated on the piece. Examples are: Sterling, 925, 925/1000, 900, Coin, Standard, 9584 (English Britannia), 800 (Germany), 84 (Russia), etc.). Most American-made objects are marked on the bottoms of holloware and on the reverse on flatware. Foreign-made objects can be marked most anywhere, and are sometimes accompanied by additional marks applied in the country's assay office which tests the quality of the precious metal during its manufacture. Rarely will you find a piece made of solid silver that isn't stamped. If an object isn't stamped, a non-invasive identification method is judging by tarnish color. Silverplate will exhibit a blue-purple hue, where solid silver will exhibit grey-black. If you cannot determine if an object is solid silver, consult a silversmith or jeweler who may use an acid test. 

Comment by Ellen Wiley on March 7, 2012 at 11:41am

I have a pair of Sterling silver Eugen Ferner 1968 S & P shakers.  I also have a large round tray with a glass insert also Eugen Ferner.  This has and M above the name and 1968 on the bottom also. I do not see the word sterling anywhere on the tray. Both of the items were brought over from Germany by the same person and I am trying to find out if the tray could also be sterling.  I was going on the assumption that since the S & P shakers were the tray would be also.  Any info or suggestions.  I have spent a lot of time online trying to find out anything about the tray with no luck.  Thanks for any help you can give me.

Comment by Jeffrey Herman on March 5, 2012 at 6:48am

Since I'm not an appraiser, you may want to post your question to this group: Antique & Collectable Silver – http://iantiqueonline.ning.com/group/antiqueandcollectiblesilver

Comment by Jeffrey Herman on February 5, 2012 at 7:49am

After the Super Bowl, remember NOT to throw your silver in the dishwasher!


There are four major reasons for keeping your prized sterling and silverplate out of the "chamber of doom:" (1) Any factory-applied oxidation (the black patina in recessed areas) will eventually be removed. (2) The harsh detergent, combined with the washer's high cleaning temperature, is much too abrasive for silver—it will eventually turn it grey or white, with a dull, non-reflective surface. (3) Most older and some repaired hollow-handled knives are filled with pitch. This low-melting cement will expand with heat, possibly forcing open a thin solder seam, or exploding the knife blade out of the handle. (4) Silver that touches stainless in the dishwasher can create a chemical reaction, producing black spots or pitting on the stainless and possibly requiring the silver to be professionally refinished.


Sterling, like a fine automobile, must be handled with tender loving care. You certainly wouldn't drive your Rolls Royce through a car wash, would you?

Comment by Jeffrey Herman on January 21, 2012 at 10:33am

Hello Diane, if there were only more hours in the day.

Comment by C. Dianne Zweig Editor's Desk on January 21, 2012 at 9:46am

Jeffrey, hope you will post on our new Facebook page,http://www.facebook.com/iantiqueonline

Dianne

Comment by Jeffrey Herman on January 20, 2012 at 12:15pm

That's correct. If the underlying metal is yellow: brass/bronze; light grey: nickel (primarily on flatware). 

Comment by Jeffrey Herman on January 20, 2012 at 7:49am

The white paper will show you the subtle differences in the metal. If there is polished silver next to gray metal that won't polish, you have a lead alloy base metal in that area.

Comment by Lillian Dunbar on January 20, 2012 at 6:56am

What am I looking for on the "white paper" test?

 
 
 

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